I'm in America both travelling and
working. I was invited by Hollins University, Virginia, to be a writer in
residence for their Creative Writing Course. When I looked at a map, I saw that
Virginia was next door to North Carolina, where I have friends, so planned my
trip round that. Then I thought well, as I'm in America, why not look up a
writer colleague in New Mexico. Uma Krishnaswami is, like me, of Asian Indian
origin, and, like me, a writer of children's books. She and I have never met -
except through our contact over the internet - but when I suggested I call by,
she enthusiastically invited me to stay, and immediately arranged for me to give
a talk for her writer's group, and sign books at a book shop in Albuquerque.
After Albuquerque, I fly to Los Angeles, see my son, and have a meeting with the
Hollywood Producer, Scott Rudin - or at least with his minnions. Scott Rudin has
bought the option on my book Coram Boy and, one of these days, we may see a
film. Don't hold your breath. These things can take years. I've just heard that
the ten year-long struggle to get one of my other books, The Wheel of Surya,
made into a film, is another step nearer to happening. They have two actors on
board, Tim Spall and Jimmi Mistry - and the writer, director, John Hay, is
looking for a "name" to play Dora Chadwick. Any suggestions?
But my trip began at Raleigh/Durham, North Carolina.
I couldn't believe North Carolina - it was south enough to be considered "the
south," and suddenly, all those songs I used to know like "Lindy Lou," all came
alive. There was the mocking bird, and the huge magnolia tree, and there was the
steaming heat absolutly cloying with the perfume of mimosa, gardenia, lilies,
magnolia and the pine trees. And at night, there were the fireflies, the cicadas
and the tree frogs. It was intoxicating. The first set of friends were all
musical. and so our days were filled with music. Aliyah, aged seventeen is now
such an accomplished pianist, already playing rachmaninoff concertos, while her
ten year old brother, Brenden, has made the most extraordinary progress in
barely a year, on the cello - well enough to be playing simple Bach pieces and
extracts from Star Wars. I was an eager accompanist! So it was all too sublime
for words. Then I shifted over to my other friend, Cameron. He lives so tucked
away among the huge tall pines and oaks that, when you turn down his track, you
suddenly feel way deep into the wilderness. In fact, at the top of the track you
are actually in the middle of a wooded suburbia, with plenty of homes around.
His is a long wooden structure, divided in an almost Japanese way, with thin
wooden walls separating the various rooms and cleverly, affording surprising
privacy. His main long living room manages to easily contain a huge black
concert grand, once belonging to Van Cliburn, a famous American pianist of about
thirty years ago. I think it is one of the most beautiful sounding pianos I have
ever played.
We should have set off the next day for Virginia, but Cameron's schedule went
haywire - and anyway - the rains started, and we would have been faced reaching
his land, where we were due to camp overnight, in torrential rain. So we stayed
on one more night in his place, which didn't matter to me in the slightest, as I
love it there, then the next day we set off via his garage. By this time the
wind was swirling and the clouds gathering, and someone said we could hit a
hurricane. I chatted with the mechanic, and asked him what one did if you ran
into a hurricane or tornado. He said head for the trees and find the smallest
tree, lie flat on your stomach and hang on. Apparently, its the big trees which
get swept away like matchsticks.
We didn't need to do that, but drove into the Blue Ridge Mountains, in and out
of squalls and sometimes lashing rain, until at last, we reached Boone, near the
border with Virginia. Trotting down a lane was THE VIRGINIAN - on a beautiful
golden horse with a blonde mane and long tail, with his cowboy hat and checked
shirt. All he lacked was the cigarette! I can't tell you how idyllic this
plateau was. Once he had a farm which a maniac arsonist burnt to the ground -
now all that remains are a sentinel of hemlock trees, wild rose, apple and
cherry, and grassland falling away down to a creek - and all in the surround of
the Appalachians. In a break in the rain, we walked his land, got caught in
another downpour, sheltered in a rhododendron grove, got drenched to the skin
anyway - but it doesn't matter when its 80 degrees whatever - and headed back to
his camper van. He leaves it there permanently, as he visits the land about
every two weeks - which is wise, as sinister neighbours look covetously at it;
try to graze their cattle or horses, and put up fences! I hope he fuflils his
dream to rebuild the house. Another break in the rain, enabled us to sit out
wrapped in Mexican blankets, sipping wine, and watching one hell of a display by
the fireflies which encircled us with an incredible light show, and even the
stars found a way of breaking through the clouds to watch.
Cameron delieverd me safely to Hollins the next day.
Hollins, in Roanoke, Virginia, is a private University - well heeled, dating
back to the 1880s - with the typical clap board and brick buildings, with their
compulsary pillars and Greek porticos, sweeping lawns and beautiful trees. I
gave an introductory talk, took two seminars, and spent the rest of the time in
one to one tutorials with the students on their Creative Writing Course. I've
been reading student work solidly since I arrived - some really good, and
managing to do some of my own! I have a lovely fully self-contained guest house
apartment - and so - all in all - I'm on Cloud Nine.
Everyone is immensely kind and hospitable. You never pass anyone without saying
"Hi!" I had invitations to parties and dinners - not least on the 4th of July,
when I was taken to Thomas Jefferson's retreat near Lynchburg, about 40 minutes
from Hollins. There I experienced a wonderful homey, All American 4 July
celebration, which reminded me a bit of a village fete. Later, back on the
campus we had a celebration barbequq followed by fireworks. Since then,I've been
to Jefferson's main house, Monticello" near Charlottesville, high in the
mountains with views across the Blue Ridge. What a lovely place; full of
beatiful trees and gardens. He was a great gardener, and pioneered grafting
plants and trees - as well as drafting and writing America's Declaration of
Independence in 1776!
There has been torrential rain, the creek which runs through the campus flooded
its banks and briefly overwhelmed the bridge, but then, to everone's relief,
subsided. Today is brilliant sunshine, and we're hopeful the rain has gone for
the moment. Elsewhere has been horrendous, as you may have heard. Flood in the
east and forest fires in Arizona. America is more concerned with global warming
than our media might suggest. Bush doesn't speak for everyone by any means. We
think we're "greener" - but though they use unbelievable amounts of energy -
they are really thinking about it state by state - even if their Governement
doesn't seem to co-operate with the rest of the world. Their problems are on
such a different scale, it's hard to understand. Where they've reached now, they
did in ignorance, and become so dependent on their energy use, it's impossible
to see what they can do. This is a huge country with vast temperature extremes.
With it being 90 to 100 degrees outside, and we only function because of air
conditioning, they would have to re-design all their buildings (back to sort of
the British or Spanish colonial styles of the past) if they were to be able to
survive without AC. But it's true. In the little flat they've put me in, I have
a VAST washing and drying machine, the AC roars day and night (thankfully!!) the
fridge is huge; it's hard to shop for small quantities of anything, and you
can't get anywhere without a car. I'm a virtual prisoner on this campus,
dependent on others if I run out of milk. But - they've got wind farms sprouting
in California, the TV advertises the latest "green" cars, and I get a real sense
that they are recognising how serious everything is getting. There's an
advertisement on TV I've seen on and off. A variety of people and children ask
questions about global warming. Basically - "What are we doing about it?" and
then there's a web site they send you to, to answer the questions.